Has quiet luxury killed creativity?
Hello from a monochromatic carpet floor...
Unless you’ve been living under a rock, or perhaps you don't consume any fashion related content, you will have heard of the quiet luxury trend. And in fairness this is a trend that has many worthy elements to it. The pillars of quiet luxury are elevated basics, and a palette of neutral tones, which translates as buying well and making it last. You can't really argue with that, especially as the foundation of any good wardrobe starts with good quality and timeless pieces which can be worn for decades even.
But after a few years, the words “quiet luxury” and “elevated basics” are starting to repeat on me. Fundamentally I’m here for it, especially from an environmental point of view. As an old lady (jokes!) I can say things like: I was born in a time when… But really, our clothes were a little too big to ensure it would last two seasons, and of course they would get handed down. I grew up in Italy in the 90’s before the global fashion giants took over the high streets. Quiet luxury was my fashion bread and butter.
The return of this trend also makes sense if we look at it from a societal point of view. Our world was forever changed in late 2019, and when the workforce came to halt, most of us found ourselves loitering our own homes in our pyjamas, way past an acceptable time. If we did get dressed it was from the waist up, and with high hopes of not needing to get up in the middle of a teams meeting! So to emerge from a global pandemic exhausted, somewhat disoriented and reach for items of clothing that are easy to wear, in calm enough colours that you don't really have to think about them, well it totally makes sense. An effortless wardrobe for a tired mind. Long live the transitory nature of this trend, which carries us from zoom meeting to board room without changing, albeit perhaps the shoe. I do understand that although the pandemic might be over, our current world is not a reflection of joy and peace. So I see the longevity of a trend such as this one.
But has quiet luxury killed creativity?
Almost four years, and many runway shows later, I'm starting to feel like something is lacking. In the most recent autumn/ winter collections of 2023, I couldn't help but notice two different trajectories. The first one being the one of the old masters, confident in their creativity and individuality and also with an established business that's been around for decades, which wouldn't be blown away by missing the boat on a singular trend. And then a younger or more modern generation of designers, especially at established houses, where everything just starts to look the same. But the truth is, it sells. The younger generation of consumers does seem to be more attracted to monochromatic and reliable choices.
With evermore increasing pressure to make commercially viable collections, I wonder if we can find a balance between fashion and art, and also selling.
I began writing this piece about a month ago, but didn’t get around to finishing it. However I count this as a blessing, the universe's timing is better than mine, because the success of the Margiela Couture ss24 show validated my theory. The resounding success of Galliano’s couture show still covers my body with shivers. A show which was held under Pont Alexandre III bridge in Paris, lit by the night sky, it crossed the lines between runway show and theatrical performance. Love it or hate it, Galliano made us all feel again. The clothes were the furthest thing away from quiet luxury. Granted it was couture, they are unwearable by the majority of us, but yet the feeling remains. I was transported to my 17 year old self, who used to watch his Dior shows with adoration and aspiration, and filled my mind with fantasies of what working in fashion would be like.
The roaring success of this show is proof that we are artistically starved, and there is a need to bring back fashion for the sake of fashion, not only for the sake of selling.
I want a wardrobe of pieces which are wearable but also inexplicable and esoteric, and at times bizarre and strange. An expression of self is not monotone or monochromatic, it changes, we are different people every day. I want something bright and somewhat uncomfortable at first sight. Something that needs to be digested to be understood and translated in order to then be adored.
I want to hear something jangling, a swishing of beads that make a noise as I walk. A new colour that I have never worn, with an interesting twist, wrap or braid in the fabric. I'm somewhat tired of soft cashmere, I want a different texture, something that is instantly irresistible, which I just have to touch. I want to think “Wait, how does that work?” - “I wonder if I can pull it off”. I'm chasing a thrill.
My current shadow word is “basic bitch”, because I do harbor a secret desire to clad myself in caramel Max Mara tones, head to toe, with layers of luxurious textures. However, can anyone truly stomach another outfit composed of only muted tones?
Super interesting read, loved it! I wonder if it's less that Quiet Luxury killed creativity and more that it's not really compatible with the way we consume fashion these days i.e. via social media and digitally. I could imagine there's an enormous amount of subtlety and detail that we completely gloss over as we scroll on our phones. But yeah...100% on the same page oscillating between the long-term 'quiet' items and fun, directional pieces. I think both belong in a forever wardrobe though?
This speaks to me on so many levels! I have struggled these past few months with building a wardrobe that is lasting and that still feels expressive. Sometimes it feels impossible to find clothes that are both artistic and classy. But do I want to always be classy? thanks for your words Silvi!!